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Gearbox
Gearbox oil level, 4-speed gearbox-Every 5,000 miles (8.000 km)
Gearbox and clutch withdrawal are lubricated as one unit. Check oil level and top up if necessary to bottom of filler plug hole.
Do not add anti-friction additives to the gearbox oil.
The oil filler and level plug is accessible through the inspection hole on the side of the gearbox cover after lifting the carpets to one side and removing the large rubber plug from the cover.
If significant topping up is required check for oil leaks at drain and filler plugs, all joint faces and through drain hole in bell housing.
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Gearbox oil filler. level plug
A-Filler-level plug |
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Gearbox drain plug
A-Gearbox drain plug |
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Gearbox oil changes, 4-speed gearbox-Every 20,000 miles (32.000 km)
To change the gearbox oil, proceed as follows:
1. Immediately after a run, when the oil is warm, drain off the oil by removing the drain plug in the bottom of the gearbox casing.
2. Replace the drain plug, remove filler-level plug and refill gearbox with the correct grade of oil; the capacity is 1.75 Imperial pints, 2 U.S. pints (1,0 litre).
Gearbox fluid level, automatic transmission-Every 5,000 miles (8.000 km)
The torque converter and automatic gearbox are lubricated as one unit. As the fluid for operating the torque converter is fed from the transmission casing it is essential when checking the level or topping up the automatic gearbox that the engine is run at idling speed for about two minutes to transfer fluid from transmission casing to torque converter, otherwise a false level reading will be obtained. Do not add anti-friction additives to the automatic: transmission fluid.
Check as follows:
1. Absolute cleanliness is essential. Use only nylon rag for cleaning.
2. Stand car on level ground. Engine idling and selector at the 'P' position.
3. Lift bonnet to expose dipstick which is adjacent to the windscreen washer bottle.
4. Clean area around dipstick and oil filler hole. Remove dipstick, wipe dry and check fluid level. Take the dipstick reading immediately after the dipstick has been fully inserted to avoid misreadings by splashing. The difference between full and low marks on dipstick represents approximately one pint (0,5 litre). See paragraph 6.
5. With the engine idling and the selector at 'P' add the recommended grade of fluid to bring the level up to the 'full' mark. Do not overfill.
6. When the transmission is hot, top up to the upper mark on the side of the dipstick marked 'HOT'. With transmission cold, top up to the upper mark on the side of the dipstick marked 'COLD'. It is most important to ascertain if the transmission is hot or cold when topping up and to use the appropriate mark, otherwise over-filling or under-filling will result.
7. If significant topping up is required check for leakage at oil seals and sump joint, rectify immediately.
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Fluid level dipstick
A-Transmission cold, top up to upper mark on side of dipstick
B-Transmission hot, top up to upper mark on side of dipstick |
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Fluid level dipstick-plug in engine compartment
A-Dipstick
B-Tube for dipstick |
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Final drive oil level, all models-Every 5,000 miles (8.000 km)
Check oil level and top up if necessary to the bottom of the filler plug hole. Access to this plug is gained from underneath the car.
If significant topping up is required check for oil leaks at plugs, joint faces and oils seals adjacent to disc driving flanges and propeller shaft driving flange.
Final drive oil changes, all models-Every 20,000 miles (32.000 km)
To change the final drive oil, proceed as follows:
Immediately after a run, when the oil is warm, drain off the oil by removing the drain plug in the bottom of the casing. Replace the drain plug, remove filler-level plug and refill with oil of the correct grade; the capacity is approximately 2.5 Imperial pints/US. pints (1.4 litres).
De Dion tube, rear suspension, all models
Check rubber boot every 5,000 miles (8.000 km).
Check oil level every 10,000 miles (16.000 km)
Check oil level and top up if necessary to the bottom of the filler plug hole. This must be done from underneath the car. At the same time check that the rubber boots on the de Dion tube are not dislodged or damaged.
If significant topping up is required check for oil leaks at drain hole in elbows and underneath rubber boot.
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Final drive oil level filler plug and drain plug
A-Oil level-filler plug
B-Drain Plug |
De Dion tube
A-Oil level-filler plug
B-Oil drain holes
C-Rubber boot |
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Steering box lubrication, all models-Every 10,000 miles (16.000 km)
Check oil level and top up if necessary to the bottom of the filler plug hole on the top of the cover plate.
If significant topping up is required check for oil leaks at rocker shaft oil seal and joint faces.
Steering box adjustment, all models
Every 5,000 miles (8.000 km) Jack up front road wheels until they are clear of the ground. With the road wheels in the straight-ahead position, check backlash at steering wheel rim. There should be no backlash at this point. But the steering wheel should turn freely from lock to lock.
If adjustment is necessary, remove dome nut, and slacken locknut on adjuster screw, then turn adjuster screw clockwise if there is backlash, anti-clockwise if there is friction on the steering wheel, until adjustment is correct.
Tighten locknut, re-check backlash and then fit dome nut.
Steering swivel and ball joints. Radius rod ball joints, all models
Every 5,000 miles (8.000 km)
The steering and radius rod joints have been designed to retain the initial filling of grease for the normal life of the ball joints; however, this applies only if the rubber hoot remains in the correct position. Check to ensure that the rubber boots have not become dislodged or damaged, and check for wear in the joint.
This can be done by moving the ball joint vigorously up and down. Should there be any appreciable free movement the complete joint must be replaced.
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Steering box lubrication
and adjuster
A-Filler plug
B-Dome nut
C-Locknut
D-Adjuster screw |
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Steering Ball Joints
A-Steering ball joint
B-Steering ball swivel
C-Radius rod ball joint |
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Fan belt tension, all models-Every 10,000 miles (16.000 km)
Check by thumb pressure between the dynamo and crankshaft pulleys, at point marked 'B'; movement should be 0.3215 to 0.4375 in. (8 to 11 mm). If necessary, adjust as follows:
1. Slacken the pivot bolts securing the dynamo to the mounting racket, accessible from underneath car; slacken the adjusting bolt.
2. Pivot the dynamo inwards or outwards as necessary and adjust until the correct belt tension has been obtained.
3. Tighten adjusting and pivot bolts.
Radiator water level, SC and automatic models
Every 750 miles (1.000 km) and at every maintenance inspection. Engine cold. The radiator filler cap is under the bonnet panel.
The cooling system is pressurised and care must be taken when removing the radiator filler cap, especially when the engine is hot.
When removing the filler cap, first turn it anti-clockwise to the stop and allow all pressure to escape, before pressing it down and turning further in the same direction to lift it off.
When replacing the filler cap it is important that it is tightened down fully, not just to the first stop. Failure to tighten the filler cap properly may result in water loss, with possible damage to the engine through overheating.
With a cold engine the correct water level is one inch below the bottom of the filler neck; the total capacity of the system is 17 Imperial pints, 20.5 U.S. pints (10 litres). |
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Fan belt adjustment
A-Adjusting bolt
B-Check at this point 0.3215 to 0.4375 in. (8 to 11 mm) movement |
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Radiator Filler Cap |
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Use soft water wherever possible; if the local water supply is hard, rainwater should be used.
Radiator water level, TC models
Every 750 miles (1.000 km) and at every maintenance inspection. Engine cold
The radiator sealing cap and expansion tank cap are located under the bonnet panel.
The cooling system is a seated type consisting of a radiator with sealing cap and an expansion tank with removable pressure cap.
The cooling system is pressurised and care must be taken when removing the expansion tank pressure cap, expecially when the engine is hot. When removing the pressure cap, first turn it anti-clockwise to the stop and allow all pressure to escape, before pressing it down and turning further in the same direction to lift it off.
When replacing the cap it is important that it is tightened down fully, not just to the first stop. Failure to tighten the cap properly may result in water loss, with possible damage to the engine through overheating. With a cold engine the correct water level is approximately six inches (152 mm) below the bottom of the expansion tank filler neck; the total capacity of the system is 17 imperial pints, 20.5 U.S. pints (10 litres). Use soft water wherever possible; if the local water supply is hard, clean rain water should be used.
If the expansion tank is found to be empty at any time, first check for and rectify any leaks which may be present.
Then remove radiator header tank sealing cap, using 5/8 in. A.F. spanner. Fill radiator completely and replace sealing cap securely.
Finally top-up expansion tank to the correct level.
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Radiator and expansion
tank caps
A-Sealed cap, radiator header tank
B-Pressure cap, expansion tank |
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Radiator drain plug
A-Drain plug, under valance at left hand side |
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Cylinder block drain tap
A-Drain tap. right hand side of engine |
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Frost precautions, SC and automatic models
It is impracticable to drain the cooling system fully as water is retained in the heating system; anti-freeze solution conforming to British Standard Ncs. BS 3151 or 3152 must be used during cold weather. See also chart in Data Section.
When the temperature is between 32 degrees F and -25 degrees F (0 degrees C and minus 32 degrees C) use one part of anti-freeze to two parts of water.
Proceed as follows:
1. Ensure that the cooling system is leak-proof; anti-freeze solutions are far more "searching" at joints than water.
2. Drain and flush the system.
3. Pour in approximately one gallon (4.5 litre) of water, add 5.5 pints (3 litres) of anti-freeze, then top up with water to within one inch (25 mm) below bottom of filler neck.
4. Run the engine to ensure a good circulation of the mixture.
During the winter months in Britain, all new cars leaving the Rover factory have the cooling system filled with 33.3% of anti-freeze mixture. This gives protection against frost down to -25 degrees F (minus 32 degrees C). Cars so filled can be identified by the blue label affixed to the right hand side of the windscreen and a blue label tied to the engine.
Frost precautions, TC models
It is impracticable to drain the cooling system fully as water is retained in the heating system; anti-freeze solution conforming to British Standard Nos. BS 3151 or 3152 must be used during cold weather. See also chart in Data Section.
When the temperature is between 32 degrees -25 degrees F (0 degrees C and minus 32 degrees C) use one part of anti-freeze to two parts of water.
Proceed as follows:
1. Ensure that the cooling system is leak-proof; anti-freeze solutions are far more "searching" at joints than water.
2. Drain and flush the system. Remove radiator sealing cap to facilitate draining.
3. Pour in approximately one gallon (4,5 litres) of water, add 5.5 pints (3 litres) of anti-freeze and then fill radiator completely.
Replace sealing cap, secure firmly.
4. Remove expansion tank pressure cap, ensure that water level is correct, then add approximately 0.125 pint (0,6 dl) of anti-freeze. Refit pressure cap.
5. Run the engine to ensure a good circulation of the mixture.
During the winter months in Britain, all new cars leaving the Rover factory have the cooling system filled with 33.3% of anti-freeze mixture. This gives protection against frost down to -25 degrees F(minus 32 degrees C). Cars so filled can be identified by the blue label affixed to the right hand side of the windscreen and a blue label tied to the engine.
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